What are natural cosmetics? Are they the same as organic cosmetics? Wait a minute, what about bio? What about vegan? What in the world is going on here?!? These are all good questions! This article is intended to shed some light on this tricky subject, so read on and learn all about the various forms of natural cosmetics.
Right off the bat we can tell you there is no hard and fast definition for what is a natural cosmetic. When you purchase a natural beauty product bearing a quality seal (listed and clarified below), you can safely assume that it contains some proportion of natural raw materials. But what is that proportion? Well, the answer to that is it depends. Not exactly elucidating, but as you’ll see, the exact criteria is up to the individual quality seals themselves to determine their own standards. Take for example the Ecocert label: a product may be considered a natural cosmetic if at least 50% of the vegetable ingredients and at least 5% of the total ingredients come by way of organic farming. By contrast, the Natrue label considers a product to be a natural cosmetic when the ingredients are of a natural origin, but without the stipulation that they be organically grown. Hang in there and we’ll elaborate!
In general, natural cosmetics may also use chemical replicas of natural materials as well as raw animal materials (beeswax, for example). Organic cosmetics are an enhanced form of natural cosmetics in that they require a significantly higher proportion of raw materials from organic farming. Luckily the individual labels in this respect are quite unified: at least 95% of the vegetable ingredients in the product must come from organic farming. The Austria-Bio-Guarantee-Seal aim higher still and, in so much as it is possible, endorse products that are 100% organically farmed. Biocosmetics are ‘green’, but beware – they are not necessarily vegan!
Although vegan cosmetics contain no ingredients of animal origin, it does not mean that everything in the product is of natural origin! Vegan cosmetics can (and often do) contain synthetic, nature-identical products. While there is still no uniform and legally binding definition of natural cosmetics, several quality labels have been established and they have set down their own guidelines for the certification of cosmetic products. Chief among these are: CSE (Certified Sustainable Economics), Demeter, NaTrue, Natureland, the ECOCERT label and the BDIH seal. A brief overview follows…
CSE (Certified Sustainable Economics)
The CSE seal was developed by the German Association for Practical Economics (GfaW) and it represents a sustainability standard for ecologically oriented companies in the non-food sector.
Three building blocks, along with an aim towards continuous improvement, define the CSE seal. Namely, the CSE considers the minimum requirements of material content, specific sustainability goals and sustainability priorities. To earn a CSE label, at least 75% of the product must be manufactured according to industry standards. The GfaW awards the label to companies in Germany, Switzerland and Austria. Inspections and certifications are conducted by external, impartial agencies.
Demeter
Founded in 1927 Demeter is an internationally recognized brand for products derived from biodynamic agriculture. Biodynamic agriculture is defined as a self-contained entity wherein all the necessary ingredients are produced by the company itself. Cultivation focuses on the health of the plant, even going so far as to taking into account the effects of the moon and planets. The Demeter Directives not only meet all requirements of the EC Eco-Regulation, but furthermore establish an even stricter standard of their own accord. In addition to the external controls to ensure compliance with the EC organic regulation, Demeter companies also undergo annual internal audits to verify compliance with their guidelines.
NaTrue
NaTrue was founded in 2007 as a non-profit and imparts its seal of approval on natural and organic cosmetics. Counted among the founding members are heavyweight natural cosmetic companies such as Laverana (Lavera), Logocos (Logona), Primavera, Santa Verde, Wala (Dr. Hauschka) and Weleda. NaTrue distinguishes between three different categories when awarding their seal: i. natural cosmetics (ingredients of natural origin), ii. natural cosmetics with organic content (at least 70% of the ingredients derived from certified organic cultivation) and iii. organic cosmetics of the highest order (these are products which contain at least 95% material from organic farming). Products and production processes are vetted by independent certification concerns.
Naturland
The Naturland Association for Organic Farming was found in Germany in 1982 and is now one of Germany’s largest associations. Naturland primarily promotes organic farming worldwide, but is also committed to issues beyond the scope of food production. For example they are involved in issues of ecological forest usage, organic aquaculture as well as the cosmetics industry. Naturland’s dedication to their calling is evident when you consider that their own standards are higher than those of the EU’s organic regulations. In addition to annual audits, Naturland also welcomes unannounced ‘surprise’ inspections to ensure compliance.
NCS (Natural Cosmetics Standard)
The NCS seal was developed by the Association for Practical Economics in cooperation with EcoControl GbR, INCI-Experts and CSE. As opposed to the rather far-reaching interests of CSE, NCS occupies itself exclusively in the arena of natural cosmetic products. Specifically, the CSE is interested in regulating the quality of the ingredients and providing guidance for customers. If at least 95% of the ingredients are from controlled, verifiable organic agriculture, the product may be designated as an organic cosmetic. Once certified, annual on-site inspections are carried out in accordance with NCS-approved certification bodies to ensure compliance with the label criteria. In the event of non-compliance, producers are given a deadline to rectify the situation or face losing the designation.
ECOCERT
Founded in France in 1991 as an organic certification organization, Ecocert is now one of the world’s largest organic certification bodies, performing inspections in over 110 countries. Created to bolster Europe’s first forays into organic farming, Ecocert primarily busies itself with foodstuffs. The Ecocert label had been doing some eco- and biological testing for the cosmetics industry as early as 2002, it was in 2009 that the Ecocert Greenleaf label was established in order to expressly set standards for natural and organic cosmetics.
To obtain the Ecocert Greenleaf label, at least 95% of the total ingredients must be of natural origin. The Ecocert natural label requires that 50% of the vegetable ingredients and 5% of the total ingredients be organically grown vegetables. And finally, the Ecocert organic cosmetic require that at least 95% of the vegetable ingredients and 10% of the total ingredients come from organic farming.
After the certification process, the designation is automatically renewed on a yearly basis with the provision that the producer must submit to at least one inspection per year to to ensure compliance.
Ecogarantie
Founded in Belgium in 2005, Ecogarantie is a label which verifies the ecological quality of a product based on its own criteria along with the EU’s organic regulations. The organization describes themselves as pioneers in their field of inquiry. And well they should! They have set the strictest standards for in the marketplace requiring the product be 100% organic. Additionally, social, environmental, and economic criteria are considered throughout the lifecycle of the product to ensure minimal impact on the environment. The vetting and certification processes are carried out by impartial, independent organizations such as Certisys.
Austria Bio Garantie
Founded in 1993 as a non-profit organization, Austria Bio Garantie is committed to the regulation and verification of organic products. Approved by Austria’s Food and Drug Administration in 1994, ABG-certified products proudly display the code number AT-BIO-301 in addition to the logo.
In case you haven’t read the spine-tingling ‘Guideline of Agricultural Products from Organic Production’ let us save you the time and give you the quick run-down: it addresses for the very first time the issues surrounding the production and labeling of organic cosmetics. Even outside of Austria, companies which bear this designation must submit to unannounced inspections and compulsory self-documentation to ensure proper behavior.
BDIH
The BDIH is essentially the German equivalent to the ABG. It was founded in 1999 to define standards for the term natural cosmetics, with particular focus on the origin of raw materials, dedication to organic farming, animal welfare and the exclusion of some synthetic additives. All tests from the word ‘go’ are conducted by independent institutes.
EcoControl
EcoControl has been in operation since 2001 and busies itself with the inspection and certification of organic products and quality assurance systems in the non-food sector. It also certifies the labels of CSE and NaTrue.
Vegan – the V-Label
Licensed by the food industry in 1996, the V label is an international seal of quality for labeling vegan and vegetarian products and services. Recognizable by its cheerful green and yellow coloring, the seal is not only the European market leader in the food sector, but is involved in many other products such as textiles, cosmetics and detergents. Keep your eyes open for that famous V!
Vegan Flower
Yes, it sounds like an Asian restaurant you would go to during your school days, but in reality the Vegan Flower is the seal of the ‘The Vegan Society’ a not-so-secret organization founded in England in 1944. The label denotes that the product is verified vegan.